Photo credit: Julia Ong

An illuminated aisle is filled with vibrant packages in the 99 Ranch in West LA. 99 Ranch has transformed the Asian grocery story scene and is one of the largest Asian grocery store chains in the United States.

Upon walking into 99 Ranch Market, you are enveloped in a heavenly blend of aromas. The air is thick with rich scents of spices — warm cinnamon, fragrant cumin and the vibrant spiciness of chili peppers. Displayed nearby are freshly baked delicacies, their perfectly golden crusts and luscious fillings immediately calling your attention. The fresh-cut produce, the glistening citrus and aromatic herbs are awaiting to be cut, juiced or eaten there on the spot.

Each scent and each item represents a possibility, and suddenly you do not have the vaguest idea of why you came in — it all appears irresistible. Today might be the day you finally perfect that recipe you’ve been dreaming about.

99 Ranch Market has been a pillar for Asian commodities and goods in California since its founding in 1984. Roger H. Chen, a Taiwanese immigrant, observed an absence in American communal grocery stores of Asian goods. He believed it was necessary to bring the comforts of home to Asian communities and provide opportunities for greater communities to experience the intricacies of Asian cuisine.

What sets 99 Ranch Market apart from its competitors is its quality, as seen its slogan “For 100, we try harder,” reflecting the catchy namesake and the community to which it supplies its products and services. “Ranch market” embodies freshness, as products are directly from the “ranch.” This could not be closer to the truth.

The West-side 99 Ranch’s seafood department consists of stacked tanks of live seafood that you can choose from. Within the produce section, you can find fruits no other American grocery store has, from pungent Durian to vibrant Jackfruit or beautifully ripe Starfruits. My last visit to 99 Ranch resulted in an entire pound of fresh lychees that I froze to create a deliciously sweet slushy.

For my family, 99 Ranch has become an essential resource helping us continue preparing Indonesian food at home. Unfortunately, the last Indonesian community market, Simpang Asia, was forced to close its doors in 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Since then, it has become increasingly difficult to find the fresh ingredients and spices needed to prepare family favorites like Nasi Goreng, a fragrant Indonesian fried rice, or Rendang, a rich and tender beef curry, or Soto Iyum, a flavorful turmeric-based soup.

As Asian supermarkets are geared more towards East-Asian cuisines, spices like pandan leaves, galangal, and lemongrass and ingredients such as kecap manis (sweet soy sauce) or sambal oelek (Indonesian hot-sauce) are often missing from the shelves. Although 99 Ranch originally emerged as a Taiwanese grocery store, it offers essential items (though condensed into a few aisles dedicated to “South and Southeast Asian cuisine”) to a diverse range of Asian communities, including Indonesian, Thai, Filipino, Pakistani and other cultural foods.

There is always something new for me to try at 99 Ranch. For example, during my recent visit, I discovered red kiwis for the first time. At first, these fruits did not catch my eye, as they have similar green skin and oval shape to traditional kiwis. The inside was a bit disappointing, with streaks of red instead of the fully red interior I expected from the label “red kiwis.” However, I was curious to taste them, and I wasn’t disappointed. The kiwi flesh practically melted in my mouth. Its texture was soft and tender, and it had a gently sweet but almost citrusy flavor.

Although the parking lot can be a complete nightmare, 99 Ranch has become an essential part of the Californian-Asian experience. It is almost like a “Costco” for Asian goods, offering an array of products. From crisp vegetables and fresh seafood to rare spices and sauces, 99 Ranch has built a reputation for offering just about everything one could need to prepare traditional dishes from a variety of Asian cuisines. However, there is still a noticeable gap when it comes to the representation of South Asian and Southeast Asian ingredients. The shelves are slowly growing in ingredients, but 99 Ranch has room to grow in this regard.

99 Ranch will always be one of my favorite places to visit, especially for snacks and fresh pastries. I can shop with my family at 99 Ranch, picking out all the ingredients we need for our favorite dishes.